Day by Day (3/17/98 through 5/29/98).

( Plus added - an Attempt to hike the 100 mile "WIlderness" in Maine with Jack LeRoux and Doc Martindale in Sept. 2000....at bottom of this journal)11/2008

 

Entry from quasi-road up to Springer Mtn.

Note blue patch rather than white AT patch

Left 3/17/98 in cold rain/snow drizzle...very foggy) Stayed at Hawk Mt. Shelter. .Later learned that I had knocked hole in oil pan on our rental vehicle going over the unimproved, rocky road to the trail head at Springer MT!. Wife Norah and friend Sandy Rhodes had a "wonderful" time getting back to Connecticut.(Another story...)

3/18/98 If these past two days don't send me home, I'm not sure what will...clouds, rains, winds and very cold. In retrospect, the first day actually was not that bad. It was difficult to leave when Sandy and Norah dropped me off. Norah is so lovable when she tears up. It was about a 1 1/2 mile hike from Nimblewill Gap up to Springer Mtn, then 7.6 miles to the shelter. Ten Northbounders plus 3 Southbounders stayed in the shelter which was double deck and quite nice. No mice...yet. One was a girl/lady (36) from Mass who also had surfed Trail Place (Debbie Smith). Nice group. I was frozen (wet) so hopped in [sleeping] bag to warm up at 6P; ended up NOT having dinner since I didn't feel hungry. The entire group of us all did lights out before 8P!

3/19/98 Up at 6:30 and the weather was okay till about 9:30. Then the rain and winds came - heavier than yesterday. Despite my backpack cover, everything got a bit wet and my sleeping bag very wet. Since I hadn't eaten dinner, I was really tired for the last 2 hours of the 8.9 mile hike. Got to the shelter early, before 2P, since I took few breaks. Cranked up the zip-stove for a noodle dinner/lunch and now am again warming up (in my wet bag.) This hut, Gooch Gap, is tiny. Right now we're crammed with 6 and another may be coming (Actually 3 more came but tented outside.) There was a .2 mile uphill trek off the trail to get to the shelter so I'm sure they were thrilled that it was full. The six inside were Debbie, Graham from Mich, two college kids, Brad and Gus, Tony Seeare from England and me. Only Graham and I snored..... Also, someone left loads of coke cans and trash. Fortunately Brad and Gus went to Suches for a mail drop and took it (trash) to a disposal.

3/20/98 Finally, good weather! One could actually see in the woods and view vistas. The sun came out in the afternoon and it even felt hot (particularly the uphills.) Another hiker (Tony, advancing toward my age, from England; trail name Giraffe) and I decided to do 12.5 and stop in Slaughter Gap to tent rather than walk another mile (straight up) to the shelter that was probably full anyway. We tossed our bivys (one man tents), got water and are semi set up so we can eat by 6. This is the first day I could collect dry wood for my zip stove. Goody. I walked about 6 miles then took a long break by a stream to rewater and get all my stuff dried out. Walking down the trail, I saw a huge doe about 30 yards off the trail. Obviously I couldn't get my camera out in time for a shot .Also cooked lunch (noodles with tuna.) Not bad - but it needs milk which I did not add. About a mile after that as I'm puffing up a hill, I met some slackpackers (hikers without back packs) from Neel's Gap. One of the guys, Gary (Voyager) from Mich. hiking with his wife Kelly, a UConn grad, insisted (offered) to carry my pack and let me take his day/water pack! Talk about ''trail angels''!Great couple and they have a page on Trail Place. (I want to follow their progress and meet them with food/goodies when they pass through Kent/Salisbury CT.) Several others were with them and staying in Goose Creek near Haiwasii/Neel's Gap. They were Courtney from Boston, Golum (Will) and others whose names I didn't catch.

3/21/98 Yesterday was beautiful and I hit the rack early (like 7:30?) comfortably in my bivy. Then, at about 10P we were hit with the gol-dangest storm I've experienced. In fact, a tornado hit near Gainesville GA and killed some people. By maybe 5A, my bivy broke loose and water flooded from the floor, although I managed to stay warm. At the first letup, Tony and I started packing up. Of course, it began raining again so it was an untidy job. Fortunately, it was only 1 mile up to Blood Mtn Shelter (550' elevation rise to the highest point in GA - 4500'.) Then, after a quick view, 2.2 down to Neel's Gap. There we were able to get coffee/fruit and DRY OUT OUR STUFF! Plus, it has cleared beautifully again. Tony and I got a ride to Goose Creek Cabins and we plan to clean up and get a real night's sleep

Try to follow the white blazes when it's like this! Missed several turns and had to back track . UGH.

3/22/98 Dear Norah.....I'm trying to write this with my mittens on in my bag.....It's done it again - Supposed to be a nice weekend. It was 28 degrees F this AM, got on the trail at 9 because we had to wait for the motel owner to shuttle us to the trail. It has snowed, sleeted, halestoned and now is blowing and freezing everything - my olive oil was gelled and my stove was a bit cranky but I did a tuna and noodles dish. Yum. But this has to stop soon. I was really strong today going from Neel's Gap to Low Gap (10 miles) and got here before 3P. Now in my bivy - because it's warmer than the shelter - which is now stuffed. Some pretty feeble hikers are trying this. You think I have problems here.( Just learned what DOLLAR RENT A HEAP is charging us for my repair to their lousy rental vehicle!!!!! - Just because I ran over a rock that knocked a hole in the oil pan and then Norah and Sandy ran it out of oil..... the saga of this story is a tale for another place)

The scene was repeated often during my early start on AT

3/23/98 Awoke to 20 degrees F frozen conditions. I froze getting loaded up so that I could get warm on the trail - which I did after 30 minutes or so. Hiked about 8 miles to Blue Mtn Shelter. It was beautiful with slight sun occasionally peeking through the heavily iced forests. Took pictures I hope show the beauty. GA Mtns are really quite lovely - when you can see them! I dashed to the Shelter arriving at 11 ish and was able to get my bag dried out by the time others showed up. Two nice couples, Tail Light (Steve) and Sue from Finger Lakes, NY and another couple, the man retired and used to live in NH. He broke his $118 water filter handle and was a bit ticked. They were moving real slow anyway so they opted to resupply in Helen (10 miles off the trail.) My friend Tony arrived; we had lunch (bagel with cheese from Kline and raw onion) plus trail mix. Then I trekked to the highway with Tony where we met Coosa (an AT helper) who gave us apples/sweets and she agreed to take Tony to Helen where he would motel and pick up a mail drop Monday. I trudged on to camp at Old Cheese Factory site; completing 13 miles for the day. (Just for the record, yesterday I did 12 miles on the trail, PLUS 1.5 miles when 4 of us hikers separately missed a trail sign as it wasn't there and went at least 3/4 miles on another trail.) White Blazes in the Snow (wonder why we missed the Trail?) The hiking was pretty good today. I got set up, ate, dried up before sunset. But, cold weather due again tonight. I'm in my tent/bag trying to keep warm; wearing silk longies tonight. Now it's on toward Franklin NC - about another 50 miles where I can get a phone, call Norah and get resupplied.

Blueberry Shelter

3/24/98 A week today. Making good time. Great stay at Gary and Lennie Poteat's Blueberry Patch Hostel near Dick's Gap. For $17/day one gets a bunk bed, delicious breakfast and they even wash/dry your laundry for you. Really pleasant and I highly recommend making this stop. There's also a phone, refrig, heat, hikers' grab bag (for discarded gear/food), and a mail/UPS service. Wow! Gary took 5 of us to the trailhead at 10A after a monster pancake, juice, coffee, sausage and biscuit breakfast. We left the hostel cleaner than before with generally all spirits high. (Hikers Debbie,Bivy, Sundance, Chap, etc)

Also last night, two trail angels (past hikers Free at Last (F.O.L.) and Hercules ) picked up Sundance and me and brought us to the Holiday Inn where we had a swim and got food. Marvelous treat and delightful people.

I took off with Chip and Debbie (Machine) and Machine and I "booked" 5.6 miles in 2 hours flat. Now we have hit the NC/GA border. Pictures at the old gnarled oak on the border. Rest/snack and on to the next shelter. The trail in NC was a monster - straight up with no crossbacks. Tough but we still were first at the shelter (Muskrat Creek) at 3:30P. Dinner, clean up and to the rack after a saunter down to some cliffs (Raven's Rock) with Debbie & Sundance to see a miraculous sunset. Couldn't get a decent shot...What's new? Were joined in the shelter by Ron (NJ), Eric, John (FL), Bivy (Richmond, VA) and Sundance (the Picabo Street lookalike from Rancho Bernardo, CA.) Part of the hike was through 6-8" snow cover in the mountains. Trail very slippery.

The Green Tunnell

3/25/98 It's next to impossible for me to lay in the bivy and write but it's cold and I have no choice. It's about 6:30P but here I am after a nice mashed potato (pkg) with soy protein (healthstore) and hot apple cider tea. Quite tasty. Did about 13 again today so I should be able to mail this from Franklin NC on Fri. Will probably go into town, call, mail and get some supplies and get back on the trail. Went over 20 miles today and one day I only walked 3.5 miles (my rest at the Goose Gap Cabins.) Still somewhat in a "pack" with Chip (young Ala Engrg student), Sundance, Bivy and Debbie.

We got joined today by a guy (40) from FL about whom I'm not too sure or happy with. He's somewhat ignorant but, more importantly, has some of the the young girls a bit on edge. They all went ahead of me this afternoon as I found a place of solitude in among the rhododendron bushes after 1/2 mile behind them. I quit at 3:30 (from 7:30) as I'd had enough and my knees were feeling "tender". 13 miles is more than enough anyway. Ran into some students from Williams (MA) on break who are hiking toward a shelter that we had thought about staying in. No more crowded shelters unless pouring rain. Noisy (sonorous snoring - not just me) and the floor is hard without my inflatable mattress.Made my first shipment home and I lightened the pack by 4 pounds. Sure feels better now.

Not my photo but I'd love to paint it!

3/26/98 (Thurs) Eventful day. Ended up doing 16.5 miles all the way to Blue Mountain Shelter. Arrived about 5 and barely got fed and my bivy up before darkness. Sundance & Chap: Happy Hikers.

Really booked and was back with the racers - Sundance, Gravy, After Burner and Debbie. They also met Radar (P'Burg WV), Mark Boston (Mr. B) and Speedy from Germany. I set up my tent on a level far away from the shelter and when I tried to go back to it from the shelter couldn't find it! Twice today I got lost. Got off the trail earlier and wandered for several hours, finally fighting through fallen trees/rhododendron forest down beside a stream, then to a farm road, finally on orange trail ending up near Standing Indian Campground. There, I was able to flag down a car and got a ride back to the trailhead. Nice Cherokee Indian (Ms Mordes) with her young daughter and an adorable grand daughter, Autumn.

Then I hitched to town, Franklin, where I called Norah and had a scrumptious lunch - veal cutlet, cole slaw, biscuit and bread/butter, mashed potatoes with brown gravy, coffee, H2O plus strawberry shortcake for $4.75. Had a bit of trouble getting back to trailhead - one ride with Scott - who got me to Rt 64, then Billy Gilly (yes) part way, and finally Jack Cansford to trail. Sundance and Gravy appeared just as I got there so, although I had planned to stop at the first camp site, I ended up following the crew on up to Siler (nice shelter.) Getting lost in the woods really didn't bother me at all since I knew I could just make up the lost time later (HA!)

3/27/98 (Fri) Did 18 miles today - many large mountains and gaps. Pushed myself so that I can get into Wesser early and be sure I get a place. Actually, I feel real good. Now in Wesser Bald Shelter only 6 miles from town. And only 3 people here now at 7P. Unlikely anymore will show since it's getting dark.

Nantahala Gorge

3/28/98 (Sat) Hopped up a 5:30A when the infamous Mr. B (Mark Boston) a unique 56 year ex Chrysler Engr crashed out of bed for a tinkle. I slept fitfully last night (lack of a decent mattress pad) and vowed to get one at Nantahala Outdoor Center, my destination 6 miles away.

Arrived there at 9:30 A to a sunny day where National Kayak Races were taking place. Arranged for a place at the NOC hostel ($12) and treated myself to a wonderful egg/sausage/potato puffs breakfast for about $6. (Big tourist mecca for kayakers.) Then cleaned up myself, did laundry and reorganized my backpack, replenished mainly with food left by other hikers. This, along with bull sessions along the river as other hikers got here, took most of the day. I did purchase a $50 ultra light 3/4 size mattress which was sorely (literally) needed. Later, after my phone calls, I prepared dinner for me and a guy called "Shenandoah" - Macaroni and cheese, brown beans and cold salmon - all gratis since they were left behind by some "overpacked or terminating" hikers.

3/29 Tomorrow I plan a short 7 mile hike but all tell me that it is a gruelling straight up climb. My knees sure appreciated the short mileage and rest today but both Achilles are swollen. This is the first time this has happened on the trek. (Hope UKy wins tonight (NCAA Championship!). I probably won't know anything 'till I get to Fontanna Dam a few days from now.)

I left a note at one of the lean-tos speculating about when Mr B meets Bjorn who is back hiking the trail this year. He had been written up last year in Outsider Mag. Many speculated that he was a huge Yellow Blazer(catching rides in order to lerap frog other hikers. Also has an enormous ego as it seems does Mr B also.

Their meeting could lead to some titanic ego clashes.

First Snake photo: Can you see it? Hot day and the flowers finally popped out - star flowers, blue bells, violets (maybe) and some small pink flowers. I expect to start seeing some wildlife soon ( so far one doe, one copperhead, one squirrel.....not much.)

 

3/30/98 (Monday) In bed Sat, I was trying to decide if I needed another day off at NOC. My knees were barking and both Achilles were very swollen. On Sunday, however, I arose feeling quite good and, after a huge breakfast (eggs, sausage, pancakes) decided to press on. Everyone suggested the first 7 miles to shelter was a "bitch" and that to get there would probably be enough. However, the young studs (Radar, Shenandoah, etc) wanted to get to Fontanna Dam by Monday (to see the UK-Utah game, of course)...as did I. We pressed on to the mid shelter (another 9+ miles.) I found first 6.9 not bad at all but the final miles to reach Brown Fork Gap Shelter was enervating but I got there by 6P happily.

The Shelter was mobbed (August, Saluki, Cod Cod, Iris, Blue and many others were there. I tossed my bivy on a semi level place and, not surprisingly, retired early. Mr. B (Mark Boston, 56 from Syracuse/now FL) kept plugging away and came in by headlamp at about 8:30. I got a great laugh by asking if Mr B. stood for Bevis or Butthead..... Got up early (daybreak) with 12 miles to reach Fontanna. Got there a little after 12P. We immediately (first car) caught the Fontanna Motel owner and got shuttled off to the PO then the motel. Cost is $25 per room - but 4 of us, (Shenandoah, Radar, Speedy and I) will bunk in for the night - $7 per person. Wow. They shuttled us to lunch at a local place - steak, potato, gravy, pintos, delicious corn bread, slaw for $3.95. We ran the bill up with shakes, ice cream etc. and I bought lunch for Nancy Hoch, the motel owner with her husband, (Jeff.) Gearing up to see the big game (the NCAA championship KY vs Utah) - shower, laundry, etc.

 

Near Clingman's Dome

3/31/98 (Tues) Lovely morning with the birds chirping after a marvelous basketball game (NCAA final - KY won) and a good night's sleep in the Fontana Motel. This dinky little place was a delight being operated by Jeff & Nancy Hoch basically for thru hikers. I highly recommend it. They drive you to restaurants, town, whatever. They dumped me and four other hikers off at Fontana Dam about 10AM. Plan to take a short 9.8 hike to shelter (Mollies Ridge.) PM: This "short" hike was pretty rugged. The Dam is about 1700' and we are now over 4000'. Clouds and rain are back and expected to continue Weds. I'm in Mollies Ridge Shelter with about 18 other hikers. The wind is roaring and thunderstorms are expected tonight. May try to do 18 miles Weds so I'll be near Clingman's Dome for Thursday AM. It could be tough since my pack is pretty heavy with food for about 8 days.

4/1/98 (Weds) Rained again all night (quite hard), but by daybreak it had stopped. Turned out to be a good hiking day and I went 'till 4:30P (from 7A) and reached Siler's Bald Shelter which leaves us only about 5 miles to Clingman's 6600'. We're up about a mile now and there were some incredibly beautiful vistas - the first of any substance that I've seen because of the lousy weather. Getting settled in for another early to bed.

No bears yet since they stay down until later spring/early summer. (I think he means at lower elevations.) The Russian boars are another matter. They were imported here for hunting early in the century. About noon today, I looked up and saw a huge boar right in the middle of the trail. He snorted and charged me and I was too stunned to move! I tried to jump out of his way but he knocked me down and took my glasses!...........................

April fool!

 

4/2/98 (Thurs) Left hut 7A aiming for a shelter 15 miles away. The views were spectacular and I reached Clingman's Dome mid-morning. Good view but windy and cold. Am now passing lots of hikers that left early March. When I reached the highway crossing there were loads of tourists, very many of whom wanted to talk to me and one even took my picture. Felt like a quasi celebrity. Got to Icewater Spring Shelter about 4 and again, it's loaded and a few tenting outside.

4/3/98 (Fri) Only 12 miles to Tri Corner Knob Shelter. Soaking rain all day and I was happy to reach the shelter. Someone had begun a small fire (fireplace in the double deck shelter.) Getting there before 1P, I spent the next few hours getting the fire going and trying to get boots, gloves, etc. dried out. A new character showed up - Bjorn, the guy that was written up in the Outside '96 article about the AT. He is a loud, boisterous, pedantic Bore....other than that.....(Talked to anyone who paid any attention about his many exploits. Said he used to snorkle and pick up clams at 85' of water - sure!) He and Mr. B should make a great pair.I left a note for Debbie Smith to give me a report of their meeting. It should be exciting. I've started a list of trail people I've met - it's getting very long. I'll put this on the Web Site later.

4/4/98 Happy Days! - Out of the Smokies. Hiked 18 miles in order to get away from these blasted caged shelters. The rangers here insist that everyone either stays in the shelter or camps outside in the shelter area. I much prefer just being able to pitch your tent wherever you choose. I suppose this rule is to keep all food locked up away from the bears (when they come up the mountain later in the season)....; it also saves the food for the mice....(one got to my trail mix in my "rain jacket" - the one from Korea which is not at all waterproof. Today, after a night of huge lightning, thunder showers, it continued to rain with the cold wind up to 40 mph. I really could not stop once I left the shelter - it was too cold. My woolen gloves got soaked, my hands got frozen - even on a huge uphill - but I perservered and reached Mountain Moma's in Davenport Gap by about 1:30 - 18 miles - but much was downhill and I rushed just to keep warm. Had a burger and fries, then chili dog/fries again at 5P (since it closes at 5:30) ....plus a Moose Tracks ice cream! Should be in Hot Springs for a little R&R on Tues. (He made it Monday afternoon).

4/5/98 (Sun) Felt good being cleaned up, fed and ready to go. Mountain Moma's is not great but the shower was and it was good to stuff myself. Arriving at about 1:30, I ate a Philly cheese sandwich with fries, milk, a bag of Fritos and a bag of M&Ms (peanut.) Then at 5 (since they only serve til 5:30, I polished off a chili dog, more fries and a small ice cream (did I write this same thing yesterday?) This morning, all three of my roommates got sick during the night eating virtually the same food I did. Me - no problem. Hot pancakes and hit the Trail at 9AM EDT. Huge mountain climb. Reached a place called Max Patch which is a gigantic bald mountain. Fabulous views. Also, at the top - and I was dragging after about 15+ miles - were two "angels" with "Trail magic". Two young men who had thru hiked last year were there and gave me, Saluki and Shenandoah each a beer and some multi grain (Sun Burst?) chips. Plus a danish. What a treat - a Sam Adams no less. One was Gruff (Brendan) from Atlanta and the other was "Silence" Montgomery from Dansville, KY. Reminds me of what I plan to do after I finish. This is a GREAT tradition. Shenandoah and I have pitched out tent & bivy near a stream a few miles from the next shelter (shelters were at 10 miles - too early - and 20 miles - too late to get there since we got the late start.) Tomorrow it's off to Hot Springs - about 18 miles.

4/6/98 (Mon) Awoke after a chilly night to a frozen tent. Tough packing up with wet, icy gear. Got off and charged up Bluff Mtn and perservered on what turned out to be a beautiful day (sunny, 60s) till I got to Hot Springs at 4:30. Staying at Sunny Bank Inn, an historic site located in Hot Springs (pop 600), but growing. Elmer, the owner, who thru hiked about 20 years ago, rents to hikers for $12/night so I plan to take my rest day here and even take in the hot bathes after I get my gear cleaned/restocked. One of the hikers, Saluki, turned 26 yesterday so Elmer drove him, Shenandoah and me to Asheville some 30 odd miles away so we could buy Saluki some micro brewed quaffs and stuff on calzones. Asheville is a thriving place. Lots of youths, good restaurants and pub places. Had a pleasant night. The bluets are in abundance along the trail and many flowers are nearly open. The red bud trees are beautiful.

4/8/98 (Weds) Well, I've now been out for 3 weeks. Had a very pleasant stay at Sunny Bank Inn (Elmer's Place.) Last night I had the big front end room all alone so I slept really well, best yet. A big pancake breakfast and off about 9A (later than I prefer.) Covered about 14.5-15 miles and have pitched my bivy at Allen Gap before NC Rt 208. Had a nice dinner - tea, hot chocolate, beans and rice with tuna added. An assistant Scout master and two Eagle scouts came along ending a hike and gave me a dinner, hot chocolate, Koolaid and some kind of meat. Would have pawned off more but I couldn't carry much more food. Trail magic once again. Plan a pretty big hike tomorrow. Will probably go on in to Erwin, TN Sunday (so I can talk to Norah.) The flowers have really popped and so have the bugs. Little locust-type critters were jumping - sounded like rain.

Simple blowdown

4/9/98 (Thurs) Welcome to the Twilight Zone. You pick a nice spot to bivy and are feeling very mellow after a nice day of hiking. You chat with a large group of hikers pass by heading South. Lots of huffing and puffing, not a normal hiking club ( believe they are a church group; later I learn this to be true....)

Rain started near midnight so, during one of the breaks, you scramble all your gear together and start to hike by headlight at 5A. It's your first experience hiking that time of day; the trail looks mysterious and lonely in the fog. All goes well but visibility is poor when you get off the trail to get around one of the many blown down trees.

As you continue along you head up a huge mountain. After about 2 1/2 hours or more, you spy the group that had passed you the night before-I had headed in the opposite direction! EKE! They verify that indeed you are headed South toward Hot Springs, incredulous as it seems. You turn back cursing your fate slightly (I'll bet!) but accepting that it was only time to completion that you've wasted. Back again on the trail when you come to a huge number of blow downs. Yes, you get off the trail again and cannot find your way back. You go to the top of a hill and hear traffic off in the distance so head through the briars/branches to the road. After another several hours you are back about 2 miles in NC below the trail head. By around noon, you run into Ole Smokey and some others at 1/4 mile from where you started at 5 AM! Call me Triple Pass. (This could have become a trail name) Three times at the same place on the trail! I had hiked about 6 hours and was only perhaps a 1/4 mile from where I started. (If one doesn't quit after this, nothing can make it happen.Actually, I went to the nearest town to try to get a hitch oput but no takers, no rides ....glad I did not stop)

 

4/10/98 (Fri) After finding a nice site and having dinner I had to get in my bivy and bag just to keep warm (cold wind again.) At sunrise, there were 1 1/2 - 2" of snow. Weird weather! for April in Tennessee. Another wet/cold packup and I walked to Flint Mtn Shelter. Tried to dry out to little avail. Still able to warm up in a wet cold bag but put plastic on my feet over socks and after some time am now comfortable (except for the guy snoring next to me. Eight people in the Shelter.) Lots of hikers have been hit by " Smokie Virus" - a 24 hour bug that causes a day of barfing - So far I'm immune but the Carolinian couple both had it at the last shelter. Shenandoah and Radar are now about a day ahead because of my Twilight Zone episode.

4/11/98 (Sat) I'm now over my moping about the twilight zone (Triple pass) so it's back to racking up miles. Trekked 18 miles over Big Bald where I got some great shots - mostly of the snow. Stayed at Big Bald Shelter (about 5000') where only Radar, Owl (Kurt from Keene, NH) and I were staying. That night, it got very cold - maybe 10-15 degrees.

4/12/98 (Sun) Up early after the cold night and made it 16.5 miles to the Hostel at Erwin, TN. New hostel run by Uncle Johnny. Served BBQ dinner for $6. Hostel is $10 and did my laundry for $2. Johnny had an easter egg hunt - I won a freeze dried dessert for 4th place. First place was a terrific Scandanavian cap hat (Saluki won finding 16 eggs; I found 6.) All the hikers are gathered here - Shenandoah, Saluki, Radar, Brad and his dog, Luke, Old Smokie, Kurt (Owl), Naked Dog and Droppy Drawers among others (Coke, ____, _____.) Tomorrow we go to town about 5 miles away for provisioning, post, etc. About 110 miles to Damascus. Looking at 6/7 days if possible.

 

4/13/98 (Mon) Erwin TN is a nice town of 5200. Big railroad town. Nice stay at The Hostel in Erwin, right where hikers get off the AT; it will get most all business henceforth. My day was eventful in that I got to take a morning shower, then went into Erwin to get supplies ($5 shuttle by Uncle Johnny to Post Office, stores and back) and finally getting to talk to Norah. Also, did a quasi-repair on my boot. The toe section is coming unglued and I did a fair patch up. Montrail will give me credit if I return them and I may in Damascus (new boots are "choke" $220!) The first shelter is 4 miles and the next 16. (This is unfortunately typical)...Since I got a late start (almost noon), I hiked probably 10-12 miles and am now bivyed after a delicious meal. (My zip stove worked great but, of course, it's not wet.) I hate to send it back but the fueled stoves are much more convenient with less hassle. That's about it. Glad to get pumped up by Norah today on the phone. Off to Damascus; like in 6 days....and my first resupply delivery!

Trail Angel

4/14/98 (Tues) It's a real kick to look at the AT map and note my progress - only about 90 miles left to Damascus. Was pretty wiped today, lots of ups/downs and the mileages seemed very long. I went about 14 today and got to Clyde Smith Shelter. So far, there are 4 of us, Bryd, Old Smokey, Roscoe and me. Had a real treat at Hwy 107 - a trail angel - guy named Daryl Conklin (Rocket) was there serving OJ, poppy seed muffins, bananas, and taco soup. Guess he was there for 5-6 hours as he served several of us thru-hikers. It rained again last night but I was cozy. Just hate having to fold up a wet bivy. Fortunately, I got here early enough to get it dried out. Also, met two TN farmers who showed me about "Ramps" - a kind of wild onion that also has a slight garlic taste. I made lentil soup with Ramps - pretty good. It's now about 7-7:30...Sandman will visit soon.

Roan Mountain

4/15/98 (Weds) Not much today. Did about 13 miles and am bivyed along side a couple - David and Claudia from Chicago. She broke her leg (both bones) in a slip/fall last April 30 on the trail. They're back trying it again but at a very slow clip - less than 8 per day. Most marvel at my pace but I'm the CrazyOldMan.com....

Man, I hope it doesn't rain tonight! Beautiful scenes over Roan Knob . (Damn - it's starting to sprinkle already.) Also, my gear is failing boots especially (Note: I later found out that the main topic of conversation between hikers was GEAR. This was covered hilariously in Walk in the Woods!)

(I always figured it would be my body failing....)

Where I reluctantly spent the night under the only shelter I could find!

4/16/98 (Th) Not getting a lot of cooperation from the spread of shelters enroute to Damascus. The shelter locations are not well spaced - either 6-8 miles or 20; one too short, one too long. Today after a nice bivy (only a small rain during the night), I got off early. Didn't see a soul until I reached Roan Mtn TN road and then, only in speeding vehicles.

I had meant to make 15-18 miles but after about 10 miles the skies opened with a heavy, continuous downpour so I backtracked 3/4 mile to the Buck Mtn Baptist Church which I noticed had a small covered entryway. I'm now here in my bag trying to dry off and warm up - and it's still raining. I'll spend the night here on the entryway and hopefully make some time tomorrow. Looks like I'm about 66 miles to Damascus. I'm ready for a beer or four.....and to call Norah. (Spent the night here in a driving rain/electrical storm)

KinCora Today

4/17/98 (Fri) Stopped at a shelter trying to get my stuff dry (again.) Last night was a huge night-long thunder/lighting extravaganza and the rain blew in sideways to get me soaked. Most of the lightning was 3-8 miles away but lit up the sky. One hit within a mile. I'm trying to pick up some miles and will shortly be off for another 8 to the next shelter (after 11 miles so far.) Hope I don't get caught again. This is getting tiresome. Came to US 50 Dennis Cove and saw a sign for a hostel @ $4 /night!, only 0.2 miles away.

Turned out it was a real treat called Kin Cora. Got there about 5; took a shower, cleaned/laundered my clothes and had dinner that was cooked by the hikers (some 10 were there - Owl, Old Smokey (whom I met before & was 'blue blazing') and Hickory, Cosmo, Skeeter, Brian Borough, Ron and Cheryl( who have a page on Trail Place), Israel, and Naked Dog Standing. Place is run by Bob and Pat who are retired and running this place obviously not for profit but "love of the Trail." Really good hostel and a pleasant stay.

 

4/18/98 (Sat) The Trail was flooded and officially closed so Bob yellow blazed us on Sat morning over to Watauga Lake so I missed almost 10 miles (this makes up for the extra about 14 I previously walked getting lost in the Twilight Zone). I hiked 16 miles in a light rain to Iron Mtn Shelter. There are 8 of us stuffed in here as another 3" scheduled tonight. Tomorrow I plan to dash to Abington Shelter almost to the VA-TN line. Then to Damascus, hopefully, on Monday morning.

4/19/98 (Sun) Rain Again!. 3" or more all day long. To get away from this **^(*()^$%! stuff, I decided to stretch for Damascus. Arrived by 5:30, did laundry, ate lasagna and a milk shake (cherry) with Speedy & Rooster, but decided it was too late to call home. Busy day tomorrow getting gear fixed, purchases and will call home in the AM.

4/20/98 (Mon) It was great having an off day in Damascus although I had lots to attend to - boots, picking up my Mail Drop, and getting cleaned and dried (pack) and reorganized. Stopped in the Hiking Store and saw Damascus Dave; gave regards to him from the Maine Two Footers (Steppers?). They finished the Trail together at Kahtadin years ago and there's a picture in the store of the group of them. Speedy II (he's the one from Germany) was at The Place- the hostel operated by the Jesuits; cost is $2 (!) per night. Speedy is off the Trail because of foot problems but came to Damascus to see people as they were passing through. Met a guy called Rooster who is a recently retired vet from Pittsburgh. Speedy, Rooster and I had dinner at Quincy's (good lasagna and a cherry milkshake - Yum.) [I think I wrote about this on 4/19 when it happened.] Speedy celebrated his 21st birthday. Some guys bought him a cake and took him to Shoney's in Abington some 10 miles away. Speedy bought two half gallons of ice cream so we all partook of the goodies.To bed fairly early but a bunch of the kids were out beering and woke everyone up at midnight when they racously returned. I shared a room with VETO and Ole Crawdad. Speedy 2 has to leave the trail soon; Sorry he had to leave.

4/21/98 (Tues) My package with the boots and cash arrived at 9:30 so I was able to get away fairly quickly. Saw Ole Smoky, Droopy Drawers, Israel and Mariner just as I was leaving. They had dashed in from the shelter at Abington Gap this morning. I trekked out of town along the Virginia Creeper which is a multipurpose trail (part of Rails to Trails.) It parallels Laurel Creek which is still swollen from the continuous rain. (More scheduled tomorrow.) In all, I did 15.8 miles and reached Lost Mountain Shelter at about 4:30. Another chilly night; I'm warming in my bag.

Denton ''Hilton'' Shelter

Grayson Highlands St. Park

4/22/98 (Weds) Hikers continue to get spread out on the Trail. Only Byrd (Jay Cole of Boston, now Jacksonville) and his dog, Luke, are hanging in with me. After Burner and Gravy, Rooster, Jelly Bean and Chill Kott are about a day ahead. Mariner hung out in Damascus with Droppy Drawers and Israel. Shenandoah is back with his girlfriend, Rebecca. Radar lost 2 days waiting for a mail drop in Erwin. Sundance and Debbie are some days behind. I met Piper along the Trail but he is hiking pretty much by himself now. Did 17 today ending up at the Wise Shelter, new since 1996 near Wilson Creek. Tucker and Cucumber are the only others here. Rain light at the beginning and then cold but the trip up Mt. Rogers and over Mt White Crop was lovely. Virginia looks real good.

Going through Grayson State Park, there were a number of wild horses and one came right up to the shelter where I stopped for a lunch nibble of trail mix. Byrd's dog, Luke, came along later and started chasing the horses and was kicked in the jaw and was still bleeding as we bedded down. Hopefully he will be OK but Jay has decided that he will have to be sent back from Atkins VA. I read some of Bryd's poetry which I think is quite good. Plan another 17 tomorrow.

My Progeny and mates

Kalila and Jake Volkov and Scott and Johanna Fentress (my family: Note Advertisement?)

4/23/98 (Thurs) Sorry I couldn't get to a phone to call my wonderful daughter, Kalila, on her 39th birthday. I'll call her from Atkins on Saturday. Got very cold last night. I got away at 6:45 and made it 17 miles to Racoon Branch Shelter and found After Burner and Gravy there with A/B's Mom. She came down from Charlotte for the day. We polished off the two bags of Girl Scout thin mints and I once again ate a four portion rice/bean dish, delicious.

Rained again just a tad during the day but the hike was really through some nice terrain. Some quasi-level rolling fields, some rocky areas and several hills (Mtns) but nothing too enervating.

 

4/24/98 (Fri) 20.1 miles today. Passed through Mt Rogers Park Entrance. They are building a new shelter which is beautiful and even has a shower which will be operational next week. Saw two small does. Also took a picture of a beautiful vista looking out from Locust Mountain. At the shelter: After Burner and Gravy, Orko, Piper and Ted Flack (from Florence, KY - ex GE - Cincinnati.)

Note: this photo is not the one above but represents the newer mod shelters being built in many locations.

 

4/25/98 (Sat) Arose early and got into Atkins (Rte 81) early for a delicious breakfast at the Country Store. Then, after making some phone calls, polished off a new treat - a Capaccino Heath Blizzard with A/b ansd Gravy before getting back on the trail at about 11A for the next shelter. Arrived Knot Maul Shelter barely before 6 - Total mileage, 19.2 - 542 to date.

4/26/98 (Sun) Pretty tired. Did 18 miles. Tired of the rocks (it seemed like Pennsylvania here today and all the distances were "long" - seemed long.) Bivy tonight since there's a youth group (about 10) staying at the shelter. It's nice but I'll be in bed by 8P, I'm sure. Planning to revisit my schedule to get a better handle on the dates around Harper's Ferry. I may give it a toss at the halfway point and come back to my beloved CT (State and friends, family.) Not sure what this shelter is named but it was one of the best/nicest.(Hiker viewers: please send me an E Mail....)

4/27/98 (Mon) Hiking today was as delightful as it was tortuous yesterday. The 12 miles from Jenkins Shelter to Bland Highway contained only a few mountains designed with nice crossbacks. The Trail meandered then back and forth across a creek and there were no rocky, steep downhills which killed me yesterday. I got a lift with the first car (Tim, dairy farm worker) who dropped me off right at Scott's Grocery in Bland. I provisioned (bought much since I was hungry) and had fried chicken and mac/cheese there for lunch. Since the other hikers were supposed to head to Dairy Queen (for blizzards), I started there but decided it was too far (and I didn't know when they'd show up.) Caught the first car (Jack Pitts, had an ATC patch) who got me back to the trailhead by 1:00P! Completed about 18.5 plus resupply. Bivyed just short of VA 611.

 

4/28/98 (Tues) Uneventful. It was down to 30 degrees F last night but I was comfy in my bag. This morning, the valleys looked like Scotland with the mist encompassing the land. Good weather after that. I stopped short of the shelter again since reportedly there were lots headed there. I'm bivying again short of Wapiti Shelter. Total miles about 17/18. Saw a big owl this morning. Heard several early this AM. Right now, there are a group of maybe 8 voles or field mice dashing around rapidly near where I'm ready to cook. (The animal life is still pretty scarce (probably from all the people out here.)

4/29/98 (Wed) Another 17. Made it to Pearisburg and got a ride to the post office by Willvin Messenger, Giles CT Schools, right to the hospice, about 3 miles from downtown. Great shower (and I scrubbed the filthy shower tub) and now getting equipment straightened out while I listen to NPR. Then off to Food Lion for supplies before I make phone calls.

5/1/98 (Fri) After the day of rest, I packed up and left Holy Family Hospice and trekked in the rain toward the Trailhead (3 miles away). Bushrod and his wife, Sharon, came along with Pied Piper and gave me a lift. They were slack packing past Pine Swamp Shelter then returning to stay another night at the Hospice. I decided to full pack with them and returned again for a comfortable night in Pearisburg. Beautiful wild azaleas in the woods. Also the wild irises are abloom.

5/2/98 (Sat) Why not - I decided to slack pack for the first time. Left with Bushrod and Pied Piper (neighbors in GA) and we drove in their van to yesterday's stop point (VA Rt 635.) Took my food (lunch) and water and we slack packed 20.2 miles to Sinking Creek Valley. Then, back to the Hospice (which is packed for the weekend.) Israel, Byrd, Mariner, Piper, Tucker, Droopy Drawers and many others all showed up. (It'll be another short night's sleep.) Tomorrow, it's back to the real world as we return to the Trail with full pack. I took Bushrod, his wife, Sharon, and Pied Piper to Hardee's where I bought them fried chicken, $0.99 burgers, and then we went to Dairy Queen for Blizzards. This was since they have driven us all over the area to trailheads, downtown, etc. Wasn't at all tired last night, lots of hanging out, drank 3 cups of hot chocolate, and read some of Vonnegut's Welcome to Monkey House.

5/4/98 (Mon) Got up at 5:30A when awakened by one of the guys going to the privy. I then got ready and on the road early. Really tough terrain - lots of huge rocks near Dragon's Tooth, a steep brushy mountain. I did get past Catawba to the shelter (Catawba Mountain) after a wonderful stop at Catawba Grocery for a slice of pizza and quart of milk (plus sweets.) Had good luck hitching again. Met Swiss Miss and Grundel. Nice folks but they're leaving the Trail for Grundel's brothers wedding tomorrow.

Photo: looking toward Cloverdale.

 

5/5/98 (Tues) Up and off to the US 81/US220 intersection that is between three tiny towns - Cloverdale, Troutville and Daleville. Plan is to stay at Econolodge there.

5/6/98 (Wed) So Spring has finally sprung here. The leaves have opened making the forest much shadier and cooler. (We finally got a warm sunny day but scattered showers are predicted for the next 3 days.) The lovely Rhododendrons have begun to open and the light laurel is ready at any moment. Plus a few wild azaleas are holding their buds. Lovely hike from Troutville where I picked up a replacement bivy rod (one had broken), courtesy of Slumber Jack.

The stay at 81/220 Econolodge was terrific. We watched an unrealistic but fun movie, "Face Off" with Travolta and Nicholas Cage (who was marvelous.) Then we watched an episode of Tom Hanks new HBO space (Apollo) series about Mr. Ego (Alan Shephard.) Finally we took in part of Letterman.

Room was $38 plus tax for FOUR! ($10 each) and I ended up sacking on the floor. Wonderful to get a shower (2 actually) and we pigged at Western Sizzlin (a special - chopped beef with mushrooms, baked potato, salad bar, drink, dessert (blackberry cobbler, banana creme with wafers, plus ice cream with oreos.) The cost was exorbitant (less than $5....) We all came away happy and stuffed. Today I left at 11 and went about 12 miles to Wilson Creek Shelter. It's 4P and I'm the only one here....That's fine. I can use some quiet time.

 

 

Later, Ghandi and Samson and Delilah (his dog) came and we had a pleasant stay.

5/7/98 (Thur) When the daylight woke me at 6A, it was pouring so I slept in and hit the Trail at 8:30. Managed to get to Bryant Shelter (the nicest, largest yet) by 5P. Stayed there with two delightful section hikers, 1/2 of Papilon Duo ('94) and her friend, Ann. Then, after dark, we were joined by four more section hikers who considerately were very quiet getting set up for bedding down.

5/8/98 (Fri) Was thinking to stretch 22.5 to Matts Creek but when I reached Thunder Hill at noon (10 miles), the skies opened so I decided not to go on and risk getting caught mid-shelter (in the rain.) Now cozy in my sack writing stuff for a mid-Trail report that I may send to the Courant and the Granby Drummer. Was joined by section hikers Barbara and Ann. Then about 8P, Barbara's cousin showed up with an 8 minute cheese cake and fresh berries. I was invited to join in. Yum. We then checked out some wildflowers and they knew of an area of yellow lady slippers. Also saw some lousewort, golden alexander and star chickweed.

Now hiking with Kadiddle, Dragon Breath and Ghandi

5/9/98 (Sat) Got an early start in the fog/light rain but the day finally cleared about noon and I got to Johns Hollow Shelter by 3P. No one there. Then, a huge Boy Scout troop descended and I'm up to my __________ in loud, unruly scouts. They didn't even know how to start a fire! Maybe I'll survive. 5/10 Sun) The laurel was lovely today in various stages of openness. Nice hiking day. There's no place yet that I can get to a phone. I'll try to hitch in to Buena Vista tomorrow to call. Only a southbounder, Beatific, was here a the shelter. I washed in the creek ----Shudder!!!!!!!

Finished Into Thin Air - about Everest. Whew!

5/11/98 (Mon) Tried to hitch into Buena (Bee-u-nah) Vista (as the local call it); No joy, too many speeding red necks. Finally walked 1.5 miles to a dinky store and talked the proprietor into letting me call on her phone. Walked back and got to Seeley Shelter, 15.5 miles plus 3 (phone.) Shelter was full but we started a nice fire. The Bernary family from Austin, TX have an 11 year old son with them hiking South (he's doing "home school".) His name is Sam and he did a fine job sharpening my dull pocket knife for me. Met a nice young couple there also.

5/12/98 (Tues) Got to Maupin Shelter, 21 miles, but I actually took the blue blazed Mau-Har Trail to save three miles. It should have been marked with double black diamonds; it was rugged, going up until my nose almost touched the incline and there was much tough rock climbing. I may have saved 30 minutes time. Three hikers out from Virginia Tech at the shelter. I decided to bypass Rusty's which is 3 miles off the Trail but where many hikers stay. It sounds somewhat overly rustic (no phone, no electricity_ although most think it's wonderful and rave about it). Also decided to pass on returning to Damascus for Trail Daze with Afterburner and Gravy (too far, too much time) - I'd rather go onward toward Harper's.

 

5/13/98 (Wed) What's new? Awoke to rain and fog. When the Trail crosses the Blue Ridge Parkway, I decided to walk it (since my flapping boot tips kept catching on rocks...plus I save a mile in distance.) Real pleasant walk despite missing the overlooks in the thick mist. While walking, Afterburner and Gravy came whizzing by in their friend's car. They wanted me to take three days off and drive with them back to Damascus for Trail Days but I demurred and went on to Waynesboro. Stopped at the Outfitter and bought new Merrill light boot and heaved my old ones. Then to town with one of the customers, Eric______________ where I did laundry and shopped. I stopped to stay in the Comfort Inn but did not want a single at $45. I waited a while to see if any hikers showed up to share. Got a burr, (old GI) haircut across the street but still no one came along to share, so I did the Post Office and went on to the YMCA. They let me shower and clean up and have a place by Upton Stream for thru-hikers to camp (quite nice but a bit nosy from a plant nearly.) Several hikers had been there but all had left so I had it to myself - on a warm, lovely night.

5/14/98 (Thurs) Took it slow this morning and got away around 10. Had a terrific breakfast at Weasles Kitchen. Then , saw Veto, Smiley & Ghandhi at HoJo's. They were slack packing back to Rusty's. A guy drove up & offered me a ride to/from Damascus for Trail Days but I deferred. I'd rather have my three days off with Norah in Harper's. The weather is delightful and so is Shenandoah. My new booots feel fine... and the trilliums are lovely. Made it to Black Rock Hut thanks to making time on the Skyline; great views & very pleasant.

Can't remember which shelter this was...but it was one of the best

5/15 - This is it!. Marvelous clear sunny day and hiking in the beautiful not too severe Shenandoah Valley. Hiked with Kadiddle and we arriived at HighTop Sheklter which is rat ridden with many flies & insects but the spring has great tasting water. Finally caught up with Godspeed and Layers plus Lorax and Mr Clean. Good time but someone spent the night 'laying bombs' which were worse even than the insects.

5/16 Best Day yet. Awoke at 5:30 so Kadiddle & I could get in our miles before the heat set in. We did 12 miles by 10:30. Then after lunch, we got to Big Meadows Park and rested till the dinning room opened at 5:30. Had a terrific dinner with a fine waitress. (I paid because Kadiddle was low on cash.....I'm still awaiting my cash).We then left @ 7 & made it to Rock Spring hut just at dark about 2 minutes before the heavens opened . Great timing. and a terrific day.

 

5/17 Went 14 miles so Kadiddle, Obi Wan and I could have lunch at Panarama .Decided to pass (ha) Pass Mountain hut since it was only 2 miles away.Pressed on and got to Elk Wallow Gap for a burger & milk by 5:30; then on to Grand Springs Hut . 25 for the day and it puts me in great position to get to H.F. early. 5/18 Denton Shelter(maybe): 20 miles. Hated leaving the wonderful Shenandoah. The hiking was virtually perfect. It was fun also to be able to kick up on the Skyline for fast food and Views. Denton is lovely and surprisingly, I'm here alone. Good. Most with me last night decided to motel it at Front Royal.

5/19 Warm day but made it 19+ to Rod Hollow Shelter. Another clean, terrific water source.I'm really getting pretty thin; can feel no gut at all and my shoulders are scrawny. Almost had a disaster. I tripped(again) and fell and my glasses went flying. Now, to find one glasses when one cannot see without them....It took about 15 minutes to locate them(by feel). Had I not gotten lucky, it would have been necessary to wait till someone came along (hopefully) who could find them for me.... Great sounds in the woods. Many birds that I cannot identify. No bears although another hiker (that little bald high school kid from Maine) has seen three(the largest maybe 300 lbs.).

5/20 Hiked 10 miles to Bears Den Hostel- a beautiful hostel run by the ATC. Great to get clean again.

 

5/21 Slack packed into Harper's Ferry (20 miles in 8 hrs). Photo is at the ATC HQ which is almost half-way. Checked my weight at the office (151 with boots). Also I registered and found I was #33 to date (Northbound) which means I must have passsed about 160-odd hikers who left before me.

Sunny Daze who is volunteering at the ATC gave me a lift back to Bears Den after we stopped to shop.

5/22/98- Stayed again at the Bears Den Hostel. Did my good deed and cleaned the bunkroom & Bathroom . Rode in with Sunny Daze to ATC HQ and tried to get my stove fixed at the Outfitter's (to no avail). Checked in at the Comfort Inn and, lo and behold, Norah (leadfoot) got there by 1:30. Great time and gave us ample time to catch up.

 

998 miles in 65 days despite 3/4 zero mile days at Trail Towns.

 

5/23 & 24 - Moved to the Northridge Inn in Charles Town, WVA (a bigger room, double beds & half the cost). We played trail angels and left Norah's brownies plus apples, soda & beer at select spots on the AT.(Later heard by Email from my pal, Shenandoah , that he and his Mom who was visiting got to enjoy some of the treats.)

5/25 Norah dropped me off at Knob Shelter (about 21 miles). Joined by Beans, a girl from Ariz. named Tombstone and two section hikers, Errol & Sean Flynn (no relation to the movie star) but he knew a person who used to be my neighbor in Simsbury.

5/26 - Up and on the trail by 6:15(it get light by 5:20). Got to Deer Lick shelter crossing the Mason Dixon line; 22.7 miles.

5/27 Well, perhaps all good thing as must cease....I felt awful when I woke up & hit the thone. Immediately I knew why - the tell tale signs of DIARRHIA. I decided to try to go as far as I could so I could get to a road why I could find a doctor. Made it 9 miles to Rocky Mt. Shelter then spent the rest of the day moaning, barfing, squirting and trying to rest/sleep. I'll have to see what tomorrow brings and plan accordingly.

5/28- Feel a little better as I took my only two Immodiums but could not eat last night. Walked to Brich Run Shelter but took many rest breaks trying to setttle my aching guts. Let me tell you - hiking when you feel poorly is ponderous and laborious.

5/29- up early with only 9+ miles to go to reach the Hostel at Ironmaster's . Turned out it was quite flat and I arrived by 9:30. Bummed a ride in to Carlisle & got Immodium and then rested/slept the rest of the day. I kept feeling worse so that night I called Norah and she agreed to come pick me up on Sat. I rather hate to stop but this is no fun being out here feeling less than well. Also, I AM a bit tired of looking at what appear to be the same old rocks mile after mile. Lots of my trail mates are encouraging me to come back & finish but I'll have to think about it. I'm really looking forward to getting back to my comfortable old haunts and I fear I have beat my body down to as low a weight as I can handle....maybe next year. -FINIS-

Being an ''Angel'' to all those ever-hungry Hikers near Dartmouth, NH

Sept. 2000 - our Virtual copy of Bryden's "A Walk in the Woods"

Jack Leroux is an big time jock. Noone can hold his jock in canoeing, cross country, etc. He is what we call a Moose. Richard "Doc" Martindale, my good friend who used to maintain my brilliant smile (my dentist) is also a class white water canoist and outdoorsman. During one of our gatherings, the three of us figured that it would be a terrific experience to hike together and I suggested the 100 mile Maine "Wilderness" (at that time, one had to carry in enough food for the full 100 miles as there were no resupply connections near the trail; I'm told that has changed these later days).

We had just a couple of short meetings to pick the date and discuss the details of the hike. Dick had told me of Jack's prowess adn siad he had beeen walking locally with a pack to improve his conditioning. I was still doing my aerobics at the health Club and figured from my experience would not have any problem.

We drove to a Hiker's Lodge near the starting point, stayed the night, and took off the next morning on our adventure.

Day 1 (Fri.)

The temp was good and we treked off. After a couple of hours, the temp started rising and probably hit 80+. We had basically planned to hike 10.4 miles . However, Jack increduously had brought along a NEW pair of untried boots (this from an experienced hiker who often spoke of his hikes during the winter to various peaks in New England). He said his feet were beginning a little burn - a sure sign that he was going to have foot problems shortly. Also, Dick was beginning to struggle and fall back from a relatively modest pace. By near noontime, Jack and I talked about it and we began to walk to the next hill, drop our packs, and then walk back to where Dick was. We would then take his pack and carry it to the point where we had dropped our pack. This obviously started to chew up lots of the day light hours and our pace slowed even further.

We decided to hike over Big Wilson and camp there. We barely got set up by dark, which I prefer not to do but got in our bags and made it comfortably through the night.

Day 2 (Sat - 9/1/00)

My general approach when I walked on the AT before was to get up early at day break, quickly gather things up, and start to walk. Then around 9 or so, I'd stop for my breakfast and a short rest. The Martindale/Leroux technique was somewhat the antithesis of this. They seem to daddle aound while I cooled by heels until finally be ready to start after 8.

It began to rain by the time we got up so we had to pack our wet gear and we hiked up to the shelter to dry out. repack, and figure out how far we could go since the rocky trail was very slick and rather dangerous. We decided to go to the next shelter where we were joined by a hiker, an old time ATer from Montvale NJ who was just section hiking. He hiked in tennis shoes and was loaded with stories which topped ours. Later a young lady traveling with her boxer Briand and her aunt joind us at the shelter. We all hit the rack by about 8 PM.

Day 3 (Sun.)

We had a rousing 5 mile(!) trek over Barren MT. to a lean to at Clud Pond. This was a lovely place on an idylic pond seldom used, dispite its delicious water supply, since it is 0.4 off the trail (and most hikers hate to walk that far off the trail (an extra of 0.8 mile to the published 2800 plus mile venture).

Getting over to the lean to after our rousing hike presented another "incident". Jack's feet had become a mass of blisters on which Martidale practiced his doctoring skills. Then, we were presnted with a large blowdown across the trail. Dick and I climbed over the tree but Jack, for some reason, perhaps his shorter legs, decided to crawl under. Of course, he had to remove his pack and shove it ahead. As he was shoving it ahead, he apparently jerked his head up and managed to cut a large gash in his forehead from some jagged branches. Doc Martindale (obviously frustrated by becoming a dentist rather than an M.D.) leaped into action. He sterilized, got to use his suture kit, and taped up Jack who finally realized that he was not having much fun. We went on to the lean to but discussions began on how to end this "Walk in the Woods" (which, BTW, was a rather similar fiasco).

Day 4

It was obvious that we might not make Katahdin until perhaps Xmas at the pace we were on so we all agreed that we should try to get to Millinocket by somehow getting back to the highway where we could hitch a ride. We hiked until we found a road (may have been one to Kathdin Iron Works but my memory fails). We saw a car heading up the road. Martindale again leaped into action and hailed down the car driven by a couple by waving a Red Cross flag!

After much discussion and presenting our "injured" hiker Jack and a somewhat exaggerated tale of woe, they agree to drive Jack to Millinocket (for a minimal charge) where he could pick up his car (which we had paid a driver to take there from Monson). He would then drive back to pick us up at another predetermined point. Surprisingly this all work and by early afternoon, we were happily drinking a beer in Millinocket.

Day 5 Katahdin

We had to get something out of this trip so Martindale and I decided we would have Jack drive us to a point where we could hike Katahdin (all hiker's dream) as he took a rest day to recoup and recover. BTW, I finally saw a Moose!! After years of searching and seeing moose tracks everywhere for years, I had been shut out til now. This made the trip worthwhile ...if perhaps the hiking was a bit marginal!

 

Jack Leroux, Doc Martindale and JP at the beginning of the 100 Mile Wilderness Trek loaded with 10 days of food

The trail up to Kahtadin

 

with some of the thru hikers..

Doc M and I did, at least get to hike to the top of Katahdin and it was a piece of cake. We really enjoyed joining in the revelry of those Thru Hikers who gained the top and jubilantly celebrated their feat.

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